Ruby Dalia Abarca’s bravery in opening a restaurant during a pandemic was matched only by her concern for her customers. Her home-based taqueria could not keep up with demand, so she pivoted to a to-go-only commercial kitchen, delivering orders straight to customers’ cars. The dining room opened a few months later. No matter what else we order at Ruby’s, we have to have the doblados de birria; ours were filled with barbacoa, radishes, avocado, and cheese, ready to be dipped into a rich consommé. We also love the puffy Pizzadilla, which is what happens when a quesadilla collides head-on with a deep-dish pizza; it comes with sour cream, pico de gallo, salsas, and guacamole, as well as onions, cilantro, and radishes. Note you’ll want to BYOB.