Good food is coming out of the cocina at this simple strip-center site. Some of the best arrived first: queso fundido, a bubbling skillet of rich, clingy melted Chihuahua cheese stocked with grilled onions, red jalapeños, roasted peppers, and chorizo and served with a pile of alternating corn and flour tortillas; four of us made it a race to the finish. Our Enchiladas Saltillo were worthy of their signature status: three corn tortillas filled with chicken came impressively topped with red salsa, crema, melted cheese, and toasted sesame seeds. Super.