Dining Guide

Salum

The splashes of green that brightened this civilized room are gone, replaced by rather somber tones of gray and brown. But at least the food hasn’t changed. Extravagantly decadent was an appetizer of Texas goat cheese and elephant garlic baked into a luscious mess for spreading on small slices of baguette. Escabeche, alas, did little to enliven a swordfish entrée, though the two purple-cauliflower fritters were certainly interesting.