The headline is freshness, from the green salsa brimming with cilantro to the excellent (if slightly chewy) shrimp ceviche. Masa is made throughout the day, not stored, but that means the kitchen can run out of popular items. Like the fish tacos, which we were disappointed not to get, but we enjoyed our second choice: chicken tostadas with shredded white meat and refried beans set off with a bang by house-pickled red onions.