There’s a lot going on, activity and decor-wise, at this 12,000-square-foot restaurant-cum-rec-room with a loungey vibe. When you enter the dimly lit space, you’re almost overwhelmed with seating options. Will it be the sixties-era dining tables, the tall rectangular bar tables, or the mod lounge near the salvaged bowling lanes? We opted for the couches in the bowling area, with a panoramic view of the whole room—a mash-up of midcentury modern and summer camp set against the original Statler Hotel’s color-blocked stained-glass windows). With mixed success, concept chef Graham Dodds gives ingredient upgrades to shareable bar bites and comfort food classics. Black-eyed pea and collard green fritters—closely related to hush puppies—were served with a zesty piquillo pepper sauce. Seven-layer dip was updated with chunky refried appaloosa beans, roasted peppers, corn, and cotija cheese. A fried Gulf shrimp po’boy came dressed with a tasty slaw, judiciously strewn with slivers of perfect pickled red onions. As for dessert, it was a phenomenal “Strawberry Short-Bundt Cake” with a quartet of toppings, sized to share. Bottom line for Scout: like a real outdoor camp, it’s more about the fun than the food. And you pay handsomely for the experience.