Like a diva making return tours, Sfuzzi is back. It first arrived on McKinney Avenue in 1987 to wild acclaim; then “retired” and came back (just down the street) in 2009; and then again in 2015, this time on Cedar Springs. Its 2022 revival (it opened in March) is on North Henderson, and it’s nostalgic in decor, with red banquettes, velvet drapes, and an impressive horseshoe bar glowing amid dark wood and black leather. Weekday happy hours attract diners looking for thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas and craft cocktails at half price. A red-sauce standby, lasagna bolognese smothered in fresh mozzarella, was satisfying, and flaky baked sea bass, in puttanesca sauce studded with black olives, capers, and tiny potatoes, was delicious (though the filet seemed smallish for the $34 price). Those preferring outdoor seating can choose between an open patio and one that’s screened in.