Shun (pronounced “Shen”) means “peak of the season” in Japanese. At this intimate split-level spot, it’s a philosophy that guides a changing menu of dishes that are complex and beautifully plated. The Umi Salad (seaweed and sesame-ponzu foam) explodes with ocean flavor; a sea urchin nigiri from Hokkaido feels like a brief immersion in the Sea of Japan; and the Sun Blast roll is a layering of taste and texture: salmon, salmon skin, tart apple, cilantro. The Kinoko, a glorious mix of five sautéed mushrooms in a butter dashi, will alone bring us back again. The fifty brands of sake invite exploration.