Robert Puig was only twelve years old when he learned the legal term “sidebar” and told his mother that it should be the name of a bar next to the courthouse. Many years later he has transformed a historic building that once housed a local newspaper into a nostalgic speakeasy with relics from a long-gone era. Diners come to lounge on red-velvet banquettes under low-lit antique light fixtures and enjoy craft cocktails and live jazz. A simple menu of American classics—crab cakes, a seven-ounce filet— complement the atmosphere. We enjoyed the lamb lollipops, standing tall amid black-olive mashed potatoes and fried baby spinach.