Both catalyst and crown in a long-overdue downtown revitalization, this jewel holds promise. With a rooftop terrace, bleached white walls, colorful interiors, and live music, the place could have been plucked from the cliffs of sunny Santorini. The menu is globally eclectic with clear border anchors. Appetizers include a hubcap-size pan of buttery red-wine-and-port-sautéed mushrooms best schmeared on crisp bread and an assortment of melted quesos (try the Rio Bravo, queso blanco punctuated with a house venison chorizo). An homage to its humble grocery store origins, the Jitney Jungle Chicken stars a breast in marsala chutney thick with guava. Succulent Baja-style fish tacos are stuffed with nutty black drum, and lamb barbacoa is slow stewed and bathed in a salsa quemada. Save room for stellar desserts, like a peach cobbler and corn cake custard with a honey-sesame coulis and dulce de leche.