Cool, pleasantly darkish, and redone with clean, contemporary lines, this standby near TCU feels new again. An easygoing dinner at the bar (where friendly bartenders make solos feel welcome) starts with a trio of sautéed jumbo scallops, silken disks just browned at the edges, perked up with squeezes of charred lemon, and drizzled with butter laced with pico de gallo. Large onion rings crusted in beautifully golden-brown jackets dipped into chipotle-lime ketchup are sinfully good, on par with the lobster bisque, topped with scallion hush puppies and laced with a little sherry. For something slightly virtuous, the III Forks Salad (from the same-named sister restaurant in Dallas) does the trick with Granny Smith apple slivers, crumbles of Danish blue cheese, toasted pecans, and baby lettuces in maple vinaigrette.