Austin chef Sonya Coté brings farm-to-table cooking to small-town Texas with Sinclair, a restored 1922 service station on Clifton’s picturesque Main Street. Her salads set the bar high, pairing leaves of earthy kale with vinegary golden beets and spicy arugula with local feta. We’d order a bucket of the fried quail legs—sourced from three miles down the road—if that were an option (it should be an option). The filet could not have tasted better, rich and indulgent with mushrooms and truffle oil. Poached crab apples and bitter greens made for a grown-up pork chop, a thick-cut Berkshire that seemed right at home in the ranchlands of Central Texas. Diners “toast the train” when it rumbles through, so the good yet affordable wine list is appreciated.
Cuisine: New American