Skipping the first-floor light fare, we headed upstairs to the cavernous space that offers long tables for communal dining and fronts an open kitchen. We grabbed seats in the quieter room off to the side, spent some time checking out the large placemat printed with wine selections (three sizes and three prices), and enjoyed a pleasant meal and wine samplings. Our friend liked his pork-and-wagyu meatballs with tomato sauce and Pecorino Romano, but he wished for a bit more kick. No complaints, though, with the spicier short rib pappardelle. A burger with raclette cheese, caramelized onions, Worcestershire mayo—oh, and duck fat—served with lemon potatoes, had our burger freak in ecstasy.