Ethiopian cuisine is getting easier to find in Dallas, but only south Arlington’s Smoke ’N Ash won a place on the New York Times’ 2022 “Restaurant List,” an annual roundup of fifty places the paper’s critics are “most excited about.” It’s a small, friendly, family-run spot in an unassuming strip center, and it offers both traditional Ethiopian dishes, like doro wat (a hearty chicken stew), and barbecue, like tender, perfectly fatty brisket glazed with spicy awaze, a berbere-infused sauce. (Regular Texas brisket is available as well, for those who can’t stand the heat.) There’s an array of herbal hot teas, as well as an Ethiopian ceremonial coffee service brewed table-side and served with berbere-spiced, hickory-smoked popcorn. Don’t overlook the delicious house-made desserts on rotation, such as banana pudding, peach cobbler, and several varieties of sheet cake.