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Dining Guide

Soto

This offshoot of Andy Chen’s Austin location is already attracting a sleek, mostly young crowd. Despite low lighting and high ceilings, the place exudes warmth, as does renowned chef Yoshi Katsuyama, whose station at the sushi bar we were lucky to occupy. Late of Houston’s Uchi, he schooled, entertained, and fed us the likes of Chili Hamachi, the fresh yellowtail presented with scallions, garlic ponzu, and crunchy fried jalapeños, and Madai Crudo, a vibrant, cooling mix of sea bream, citrusy ponzu, and navel orange. The showstopper was the Salmon Over Fire: prepared kabayaki-style, the thin filets were adorned with shallots and edible flowers and draped over a skewer suspended above flaming coffee beans. The roasted Chilean sea bass, marinated for 72 hours in sweet miso, was a crunchy, succulent success. Fish is flown in daily from Tokyo, and while it’s easy to break the bank, bargains can be had at happy hour.

City: Houston

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $$$

Rating: ★★★

Address: 224 Westheimer Rd., Houston, TX, 77006

Hours: L Fri–Sun. D 7 days.

Phone: 713-485-4514

Website: houston.sotorestaurant.com

Last updated: May 9, 2022