Do not fret over the strip mall location (get all of your helium balloon needs taken care of next door). Given the steep rents in the central city, it is no wonder that both savvy sushi chefs and sophisticated diners are heading to the burbs. The narrow space is spare, decorated in charcoals and grays with flecks of gold. There is an immoderate omakase menu, but even à la carte, there are treasures. Tiny Kumamoto oysters, topped with caviar, had just been flown in, and a sherbet dish serving of California coast uni petals, topped with more caviar, was purely decadent, with none of the bitterness of lesser-quality sea urchin. A platter of sashimi yielded the traditional sushi bar offerings, including a piece of escolar torched to set off the sweetness. We found our favorite way to close, a piece of tamago sushi, a bit dry, but the fresh-grated wasabi was a revelation in its subtle palate cleansing.
City: Cedar Park