Home to the signature towering French cheeseburger, this place never stops coming up with modern European surprises. Order this to go: A side order of macerated beets with blood orange, dill, and pine nuts livened up tender leg of lamb (we added cracked black pepper for oomph) and its accompanying chickpea “frites” with salty-spicy harissa. Lasagna alla Norma with eggplant, green-tomato sauce, and a blizzard of ricotta salata will appease vegetarians. Don’t pass up the house-made bread or eye-opening desserts, like a caramelized-persimmon tart. Pro tip: Alas, no one answered the phone when we arrived to fetch our order, so you may want to plan to pick up your food inside, unless you like waiting in your car indefinitely.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.