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Dining Guide

Squable

Justin Yu and Bobby Heugel know their way around the restaurant biz, and it shows at this brand new, well-run instant hit in the Heights, helmed by co-chefs Mark Clayton and Drew Gimma. The space is simple and attractive, with a wraparound bar and outdoor seating. We began by sharing the rich Dutch baby, the pancake formed into a bowl filled with fresh cheese, preserved orange, black pepper, and honey (it could be a dessert as well!). Small plates include chilled Royal Red shrimp, tender and juicy, with white sauce (crème fraîche and aioli, with a hint of horseradish) and maltagliati pasta tossed with butter-braised onions, Parmesan, and a touch of anchovy. Our “big plate” fed two: a half chicken served with bread dumplings (dubbed “gnocchi fritos” by our waiter) with chicory and a Parmesan-soy dressing. One leg was a bit rare, but otherwise no squabbles from us.

City: Houston

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $$$

Rating: ★★★

Address: 632 W. 19th, Houston, TX, 77008

Hours: D Tue–Sun.

Phone: 832-834-7362

Website: squabletime.com/

Last updated: July 9, 2019