Dining Guide

State of Grace

A hot dining destination has emerged from the handsome remodeling of a dry cleaners and a beignet shop in this River Oaks strip center. And premium oysters ($1 at happy hour), shucked and served at a semicircular bar, figure largely in its success. Other home-style offerings, such as crab hush puppies with cane syrup butter, share the plaudits, as do fine drinks. Our tender mint pappardelle with lamb ragù demonstrated chef Bobby Matos’ deft hand with pasta, and his treatment of fish—garlic-and-citrus-glazed halibut—proved equally satisfying. Sadly, a fig-and-Gorgonzola appetizer proved inexplicably scant of figs, though they were abundant locally. Complimentary crème-filled ginger cookies were a nice touch.