Dining Guide

State of Grace

We missed the elegance of the dining rooms at this River Oaks spot but still relished the food we ate at our own table. This is the best sort of local fusion—Southern, Gulf Coast, Latin, Asian, all brilliantly executed. Order this to go: We gave top marks to our duck confit, sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and pepitas and served with a smoky pumpkin seed mole and bitter greens. The root vegetable gratin was ultimate comfort, with its Yukon Gold potatoes, celery root, and rutabaga in a cream sauce. Warm sticky toffee pudding with super creamy ice cream almost made it home in its original form. Pro tip: The menu is limited to menu items that travel well. Delicious gratis cream-filled ginger cookies were dropped into our bag with a wave and a smile.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.