Dining Guide

Stellina

You won’t find this kind of sophisticated food in any other small West Texas town. But the vibe is informal and welcoming; visitors are almost always greeted at the door and told they may sit wherever they choose. The tables are communal, and the largest of these is the long, slot-shaped bar in the center. Waiters are fluent in items like fettunta (garlic bread) and the spreadable spicy sausage known as ’nduja, which make appearances on the frequently changing, mostly Italian menu.