With wood-lined walls and hard floors—plus some festive diners—the decibel level here can reach deafening. But we can’t complain about the fine wood-fired meats and equally good starters. In fact, three of them almost stole the show: a complex hay-smoked tomato bisque with a grilled cheese crouton; a smoked Vidalia onion soup topped with cheese; and a hefty beef short rib tamal with brisket chili, cotija cheese, and fresh pico. Still, both the ten-ounce filet and a sixteen-ounce ribeye could not have tasted better (even if the side of truffle Parmesan fries seemed to be truffle-less).
Steak or barbecue? There’s no need to choose.