Paying homage to Houston’s shuttered Felix, this copy of restaurateur-chef Ford Fry’s Atlanta Tex-Mex restaurant has made a home in the former Bernadine’s spot, in the Heights (right next to Ford’s other new concept, La Lucha). The streamlined space is breezy, upbeat, and modern, with lots of windows and a generous covered patio. We started with an excellent seafood campechana accented with slivered green olives and jalapeños. The El Lopez was a spot-on classic Tex-Mex combo with cheese enchiladas draped in a piquant gravy and minced white onions, Mexican rice, guacamole, and a throwback puffy queso tostada and crispy beef taco. Of the parillas, the highlight was the camarones brochetas, large chile-spiced Gulf shrimp stuffed with Jack cheese and jalapeño and wrapped in bacon. The carnivore in our group ordered the beef fajitas (expertly cooked but oversalted), served with addictive house-made flour tortillas and perfect charro beans. We’ll be back to check out the weekend brunch.
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Upscale Tex-Mex in a chic and bustling space in the Heights.