The location at the Domain is strikingly like the original (and dearly departed) venue on South First. In fact, they could be twins. It is impressively roomy, considering that it’s smack in the middle of the Domain’s restaurant row, Rock Rose, with its cheek-by-jowl storefronts. Dark and mysterious inside, with lots of big, square communal tables, it feels like a ceremonial lodge that happens to serve modern Thai cuisine. The food is emphatic, nothing subtle about it. In many but not all dishes, there is plenty of spice and plenty of sweet, but always with a happy balance between the two. You’ll find a crowd-pleasing variety of choices, from curries to salt-and-pepper seafood options to various types of fried rice. In the “grilled and crispy” section there’s the classic Thai dish Son-in-Law, sporting braised pork shoulder, a crispy farm egg, thick soy, and nam prik pla (the classic sweet-sour condiment of fish sauce, Thai chiles, garlic, and citrus). If you’re in the mood for something light, check out the squash curry, a pleasant enough coconut milk–based stew with both butternut and kabocha squash, tofu, tomato, roasted cauliflower, and pepitas. A combination of miso and cashew butter gives it a bit of a satay quality.