Passport expired? That trip to Spain is closer than you think. Charming azulejo tiles line the walls here, punctuated with shiny copper paella pans and industrial displays of canned goods alongside breathtaking slabs of Spanish jamón. The tapas that arrive in dizzying variety are studiously academic and heartwarmingly familiar. We start with the pintxos section of the menu, with skewers of stuffed piquillos, smoky pork belly, and eggplant, among others. Montaditos are toasted baguettes towering with goodies, from the simple genius of tomato and olive oil to layers of salt cod and potato (or try sliced duck breast accompanied by membrillo). The shrimp in the gambas al ajillo are roasted with enough garlic to make a memorable dish but not a dating disaster. Make sure to order the queso de cabra crujiente (medallions of crisp-fried goat cheese) drizzled with a bewitching hazelnut-orange honey. We also can’t pass on the toothsome sweetbreads sautéed in garlic, parsley, and a heady sherry.