The place where it all started, the original location on Spyglass, has been spiffed up with new tables and a more logical layout (which somehow makes it feel bigger). It’s arguably now the premier Austin Tacodeli location for chilling under the trees on a weekend morning, as bed-headed couples roll in, kids play video games on their phones, and grackles sneak sips of water from the communal dog bowl. It hardly seems like it’s been seventeen years since this little counter-order place jump-started the modern taco movement in Austin, combining Mexican ideas (many based on family recipes from founder Roberto Espinosa) with America’s penchant for big, lusty flavors. The best example is the Cowboy taco, featuring grilled tenderloin strips, corn, guac, and queso fresco. But vegetarians get their fair share of attention too (a custom order of scrambled-egg-white tacos with refried black beans and pico may look like hell but it tastes great). With five locations in Austin, one in Dallas, and one on the way in Houston (in January), Tacodeli is on a roll. As we were standing in line, we met a woman visiting from Hawaii who confessed she’d been there every morning that week in an effort stave off post-taco depression when she got home.