Upon entering this newish place you could be forgiven for thinking that you had been miraculously teleported across the Rio Grande and into a Mexican taco stand—the tiles, the metal doors, the open-air dining patio . . . The standard order of five tacos, with a choice of many fillings, would seem enough to feed a family, but no. They are rather small and might just feed one, so better order something else along with them, like the divine quesadillas with puffy-fresh flour tortillas. Pottery bowls of various salsas offer more possible combinations. Choose your table (if there are any available) with a view to the setting sun and the direction of the (often dust-laden) wind.