Looked at as a sleek bar with see-and-be-seen appeal and decent-enough contemporary Japanese food, TenTen gets the job done. As a serious dining destination emphasizing tradition and precision, it falls short. But doubters are in the minority—on weekend nights, the front area around the tall tables can be standing room only. On the plus side, our gyoza were good—the slightly flat, roundish dumplings (filled with pork and shiitake mushrooms) had a nice little sear on the outside and came in a pleasant soy-tinged broth. On the downside, the shrimp tempura needed a fluffier batter, even though the shellfish tucked inside were perfectly fresh; the best part was a killer grain mustard sauce. Having heard so much about the hamachi carpaccio, we were disappointed that the fish was hardly detectable amid a ton of sliced Burgundy truffles and a strong yuzu-based drizzle. Happily, the same fish, fresh and beautifully cut, came off nicely as sushi (although the mound of rice was rather small). We liked it better than the tuna, which was approaching room temperature. A baby kale salad seemed more American than Japanese, with its sweet sesame dressing, but it was so tasty we hardly minded.