In a smartly renovated Fairmont neighborhood storefront, this casual spot delivers a sophisticated menu. We nibbled on assorted olives in a marinade of chiles, cinnamon, rosemary, and citrus—accompanied by Marcona almonds—alongside a silken chicken liver pâté, itself a beautiful platter with freshly made chowchow and grilled bread. Lightly charred and chilled green and white asparagus formed the centerpiece of a gorgeous salad plate, with garlic crema puree beneath and shaved smoked ham and poached egg atop. Eggplant dumplings bathed in coconut broth with lemongrass sambal elicited audible swoons, quieted only by sips of a blanc de blancs brut from Emilia-Romagna.