The Centennial Club

The Centennial’s updated menu includes a line of tacos, but keeping to the kitchen’s mantra—“South Texas Gourmet Soul Food”—these tacos are probably not quite what your abuela made. As if the filling of pecan-crusted oysters topped with a tangy slaw and a house chile- ponzu weren’t outstanding all on its own, the tortilla is also punched up, with a chipotle pepper infusion, which turns it a spunky red. These tacos are a reasonable meal all by themselves or a great starter, before you move on to something like the Ranch Stew with slow-braised ribeye and vegetables in a velvet-smooth veal stock.