Dining Guide

The County Seat

Classic country cooking distinguishes this downtown cafe in Cass County (Linden is indeed the county seat). Try this: We figured we would be invoking some ancient cowboy karma if we did not go for the chicken-fried steak, so we settled on a half order (with the requisite cream gravy, of course) and added the mashed potatoes and a side of fried okra. The meat was fork-tender, and the whole meal could have fed three or four. Our vegetarian diner was happy with his veggie plate, choosing steamed broccoli, black-eyed peas, and macaroni and cheese. Pro tip: Top off your hearty lunch with a generous slice of peach cobbler.