At an unassuming suburban strip mall in this small city between Dallas and Fort Worth, chef Chetra Chau takes us on a global journey via tacos. His creations are as toothsome as they are beautiful to behold, which is why his operation earned a spot on our November list of “Top 25 New(ish) Taquerias in Texas.” For the chile relleno taco, spicy picadillo with queso and pico de gallo fill a roasted poblano chile wrapped in a puffy tortilla shell. Braised pork belly slicked with hoisin finds a foil in pickled cucumber and scallion, all of which mingle happily inside a tender bao bun. Best of all is the banh mi taco: a supple flour tortilla cradles ground pork topped by plump pork pâté, pickled onion and jalapeño, and chopped cilantro. Lychee martinis and cucumber mules complement these imaginative flavors, but a cold Topo Chico with a lime wedge is even better.