Located across the street from a popular surfing spot, the Gumbo Diner serves up delicious steam kettle–style gumbos, seafood platters, burgers, and salads—and breakfast all day, for the late risers. We sat in front to watch the surfers and thoroughly enjoyed the Cajun pistolettes, two beignets stuffed with a buttery crawfish étouffée. Then we shared the heavenly shrimp and grits and an oyster po’boy. Just like the shrimp, the oysters were plump and fresh, and the bread was true New Orleans French bread, tender and crispy yet firm enough to stand up to a mountain of oysters. We couldn’t leave without trying the beignets, and we’re glad we didn’t: they arrived piping hot and covered in powdered sugar.