Colorful kitsch clashes with a spare interior at this outlet of a casual Colorado chain. The food, however, is largely on-point. All meals start with a chef’s sampler of bite-size dishes; standouts for us included the seafood gumbo—a little soupy but rich with flavor and aromatics—and the crawfish étouffée, which proved thicker and more satisfying. All subtlety aside, our favorites of the entrées were fried. The shrimp and catfish were spicy and golden brown, and the fried oyster po’boy was tasty. After all that, why not give in and finish with a basket of pillowy beignets blanketed in powdered sugar?