Just as we were becoming a bit disenchanted with this elegant place, we enjoyed a terrific meal on our last visit. In a new development, the minimum number of prix-fixe courses has been reduced to a manageable five (from nine, at one point—there are four “supplements” for the diners who just can’t get enough). And our samplings were perfection, especially a bright green seaweed-based “taco” filled with lovely raw snapper, cilantro, avocado, and cucumber and a mellow “gazpacho,” a rose-tinted gelatin studded with bits of watermelon and heirloom tomato and topped with shreds of king crab. Wine pairings were terrific and the service as capable as ever.
Cuisine: New American