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Dining Guide

The Pass

Photograph By Debora Smail

A spare setting with banquettes and tables overlooking the “stage,” i.e. the kitchen, suits the elegant presentation of the tasting menu’s gorgeous dishes. Perhaps the simplest course of our recent meal proved to be the best: squares of cucumber, tomato, watermelon, and goat cheese arranged in a grid touched with Thai basil, olive oil, and toasted sesame seeds—perfect. We also approved of the crispy beef tendon with a rich black sesame béarnaise and the lovely uni, abalone, miso, and seaweed on tagliatelle pasta. Only the “main” course of smoked beef short rib on jalapeño cheddar bread didn’t come off as well—it seemed more fat than meat. The clever Halibut “On the Cob” proved to be fish inside a hollowed-out cob of corn.

 

City: Houston

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $$$$

Rating: ★★★★

Address: 807 Taft, Houston, TX, 77019

Hours: D Tue–Sat.

Phone: 713-628-9020

Website: passandprovisions.com/

Last updated: November 4, 2018