We are tempted simply to write the word “Yum!” repeatedly. This top Texas restaurant, the creation of Justin Yu, a James Beard Award winner, sources local and seasonal ingredients to be used in magical cuisine. In the warm little space, expert servers detail the complex dishes with aplomb. Our Dutch Crunch roll with butter, Cherry Bomb pepper hot sauce, Mexican oregano, and ham proved as luscious as described. Steamed oysters (two celestial bites) prepared us for hand-rolled farfalle in a sauce vin jaune with mizuna and braised rabbit, a comfort food so comfortable it put us in a slight daze. We were snapped back by a smoky bowl of mushrooms and Royal Corona beans stewed with sauerkraut and gremolata, then eased into a transporting Gulf snapper in broth swirled with spinach pistou. We finished with a wheel-shaped Paris-Brest pastry filled with sweet Swiss cream cheese. Book way ahead for an evening to remember.
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Theodore Rex
Houston
New American
$$$$
A top Texas restaurant from award winner Justin Yu.

Reviews
Justin Yu Roars Back With Theodore Rex
Foodies freaked when the famously fastidious chef closed Oxheart. But there’s much to like about its easygoing successor, Theodore Rex.
Justin Yu Wins James Beard Award for Best Southwest Chef
Justin Yu of Oxheart brings a big prize home to Houston.
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