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Dining Guide

Theodore Rex

Pakora-style oyster mushrooms.
Photograph by Cooper + Ricca

Justin Yu has another winner, in the same modest spot that once housed Oxheart. The menu is simpler and less costly; most dishes come in under $30, with several perfect for sharing . . . or not. We fork-fought over a small plate: the Tomato Toast, chewy oblongs of bread loaded with small tomatoes and a pile of fresh herbs. We also relished a lightly poached snapper, thick boneless filets touched with carrots and Meyer lemon, all resting in a mellow broth with a big dab of spinach pistou, perfect for doling out with each bite of the fish, then mixing in the broth for a satisfying souplike finish.

City: Houston


Drinks: Beer & wine

Price: $$$

Rating: ★★★★

Address: 1302 Nance, Houston, TX, 77002

Hours: D Thur–Mon.

Phone: 832-830-8592

Website: https://trexhouston.com/

Last updated: July 23, 2018