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Dining Guide

Theodore Rex

Pakora-style oyster mushrooms.
Photograph by Cooper + Ricca

We are tempted simply to write the word “Yum!” repeatedly. This top Texas restaurant, the creation of Justin Yu, a James Beard Award winner, sources local and seasonal ingredients to be used in magical cuisine. In the warm little space, expert servers detail the complex dishes with aplomb. Our Dutch Crunch roll with butter, Cherry Bomb pepper hot sauce, Mexican oregano, and ham proved as luscious as described. Steamed oysters (two celestial bites) prepared us for hand-rolled farfalle in a sauce vin jaune with mizuna and braised rabbit, a comfort food so comfortable it put us in a slight daze. We were snapped back by a smoky bowl of mushrooms and Royal Corona beans stewed with sauerkraut and gremolata, then eased into a transporting Gulf snapper in broth swirled with spinach pistou. We finished with a wheel-shaped Paris-Brest pastry filled with sweet Swiss cream cheese. Book way ahead for an evening to remember.

City: Houston

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $$$$

Rating: ★★★★

Address: 1302 Nance, Houston, TX, 77002

Hours: D Thur–Mon.

Phone: 832-830-8592

Website: https://trexhouston.com/

Last updated: December 1, 2019