Houston’s ubiquitous local Chinese chain arrived in San Antonio a little over two years ago, and while our first visit was fine, the small strip-center spot has since grown into its own, matching or surpassing other local Szechuan restaurants for authenticity, fiery spice, and a fearless menu. That bill of fare can in fact be overwhelming, so ask questions and trust your server. After a dish of tender pork and shrimp dumplings, we shared a “spicy and numbing pot” with grilled tiny pork riblets in a thick stew of rice and an almost uncountable variety of vegetables, from black mushrooms to noodle-like bamboo. And speaking of noodles, dry noodle dishes and wet soupy noodle dishes are just a few other options, along with hot and cold homemade tofu. Just be aware that even when you share a dish, you will take home leftovers. Don’t count on the online menu to cover it all and do expect to be dining with clientele who speak the language and to be guided by servers who know their stuff.