Tlahco in Nahuatl, the language of the Aztecs, translates to “middle,” but the menu here ranges far and wide, from buttermilk pancakes with maple syrup to enmoladas with house-made mole. Knowing Tlahco had wrestled with a pandemic and staffing shortages, we wondered if the stucco cafe had held fast to its heart-of-Mexico standards—and the answer is a resounding yes. You’ll find the same soulful medley of dishes, from excellent egg tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas to an authentic cochinita pibil (a Yucatecan pork dish with sour orange and pickled onions). Big, shareable platters (parilladas mixtas, with arrachera steak, chicken, shrimp, sausage, quesadillas, grilled onions, and roasted chiles gueros) are a great dinner option for a table of friends.