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Dining Guide

Tonight & Tomorrow

The restaurant at the venerable La Colombe d’Or hotel, within the elegant old Fondren Mansion, has been gracefully refreshed, with an expanded bar and nicely spaced tables. Try this: Chef Jonathan Wicks has kept some classic Colombe dishes, including a nigh perfect French onion soup, a rich balance of broth, onions, cheese, and croutons. A new dish, the Vadouvan Curry Carrots, was also fabulous: a creamy labneh base, sweet carrots, carrot-top pesto, and candied pecans. Also a delight was the tender, juicy Brick Half Chicken atop smashed marble potatoes with bacon, salsa verde, and a topping of herbs. Less successful was the bucatini, an undercooked pasta that heirloom tomatoes and pistou could not save. Pro tip: There is no takeout or delivery available.

City: Houston

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $$$$

Rating: ★★★

Address: 3410 Montrose Blvd., Houston, TX, 77006

Hours: B 7 days. L Mon–Fri. D 7 days.

Phone: 713-517-1001

Website: tnthtx.com

Last updated: July 6, 2021