The restaurant at the venerable La Colombe d’Or hotel, within the elegant old Fondren Mansion, has been gracefully refreshed, with an expanded bar and nicely spaced tables. Try this: Chef Jonathan Wicks has kept some classic Colombe dishes, including a nigh perfect French onion soup, a rich balance of broth, onions, cheese, and croutons. A new dish, the Vadouvan Curry Carrots, was also fabulous: a creamy labneh base, sweet carrots, carrot-top pesto, and candied pecans. Also a delight was the tender, juicy Brick Half Chicken atop smashed marble potatoes with bacon, salsa verde, and a topping of herbs. Less successful was the bucatini, an undercooked pasta that heirloom tomatoes and pistou could not save. Pro tip: There is no takeout or delivery available.