Quiet and constant, this evergreen favorite sets an enviable standard with a border-approved menu that delights youngsters and grannies alike. The menu is heavy on both tradition and taste. Try chicken mole, deeply layered in flavor, or enchiladas in various guises (make ours rojas with queso blanco and grilled potatoes and carrots). There are soups and then there are caldos; here the latter is Lala’s roasted poblano soup, creamy and decadent and sometimes hot (or not). Whether table-side or on a couch with Netflix, it’s a show-stopping star. Order this to go: Albóndigas de chipotle are toothsome meatball morsels stewed in an earthy chipotle-infused tomato sauce that’s best eagerly and ravenously scooped up into perfect corn tortillas (we recommend two orders per person). Pro tip: Don’t pass up the preferred side of legendary poblano rice; creamy and beribboned with roasted peppers, it could be a main dish on its own.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.