We are thankful for the dining room’s well-spaced tables and sound control, both a rarity these days—and usually accompanied by rarified prices. Well worth it, though, were two recent dishes: a luscious, generous filet mignon with accents of truffle—perhaps the best steak ever, said our major meat eater—and a thick, milk-white slab of halibut topped with large chunks of crab and a svelte beurre blanc. Other notable dishes included two burrata-laced starters, one spiked with almonds and currants and the other with prosciutto and figs. Friends raved about both a gorgeous king salmon with Asian pears and branzino with lump crap, a white wine–lemon essence, and a row of cannellini beans. We all wished we had tried the whole fish encased in a huge salt dome that arrived, ablaze, to a nearby table. Service, usually top-flight, alternated between overly attentive and somewhat neglectful.