This longtime favorite of the River Oaks crowd offers careful service, a civilized setting and noise level, and classic fare with a strong Italian accent. Recent high points? Creamy burrata pugliese, with fennel and crisp semolina, topped with swirls of paper-thin apples, and a long-stem Roman artichoke, tender and sparked with pesto vinaigrette, olive oil, and Parmigiano Reggiano. Two meat dishes also satisfied: a thick hunk of filet mignon topped with truffles and a perfect pork chop, tender and pink throughout. Though our guest approved her Dover sole meunière, our Red Snapper Barolo came overcooked in a red wine reduction that overpowered the delicate fish. We’re not sure what to make of the buttery silken potatoes—a bit gooey for our taste—or the hefty topping of blueberry conserva obscuring a lovely Muscovy duck pâté.