In a classy, brasserie-style space inside the Renaissance Saint Elm hotel, Toussaint prepares French classics, plus several Vietnamese-inspired dishes, with mixed success. Beef bourguignon was tender and tasty: large chunks of Wagyu braised with mushrooms and lardons, cloaked in a rich, demi-glace-enhanced sauce, atop velvety potato puree. Moules frites were well executed, but the green curry broth was too mild for our taste. A vegetarian cassoulet proved dry, without enough broth to bind the beans and vegetables. The banh mi featured flavorful crisped pork belly in a squishy-soft bun that needed toasting. Gougères (cheesy pastry puffs) and truffle Parmesan fries came off perfectly; not so the apple tarte tatin, which failed to caramelize.
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French classics in a classy, brasserie-style space inside the Renaissance Saint Elm hotel.