Our childhood memories may be steeped in sepia, but we still recall the giddy joy of dashing to the corner taco stand in Nuevo Laredo and piling our tortillas so high that the toppings defied gravity. That spirit of taco excess thrives in this street-smart eatery. Get down with trompo al pastor tacos, fat with spit-grilled beef that has been spiced up with adobo sauce. It’s finished with the classic chunks of pineapple and onion, an inspired marriage. Someone in your party should try a taco árabe—a tasty salute to Middle Eastern cuisine and its living presence in Mexico’s culinary heritage.(Gyro-style beef or chicken is tucked into pita-inspired shells, sprinkled with pico de gallo, and sided with a tart house tzatziki.) And finally, there are tortas de carnitas. Just tuck that tender pork onto a fluffy bolillo (roll) and consider jacking said sandwich up with chilaquiles (green-sauce-enhanced tortilla chips) or chicharrónes (crunchy pork rinds). The bar offers some outstanding specialties: We’re hooked on the Carajillo, which fuses cold-brew espresso, cinnamon, and a generous glug of the Spanish Licor del 43. A close second is the bracing Mezcal Mule (say that three times after you’ve had one).