This cool, airy space fairly bustles with exceptionally friendly servers and delighted diners supping on Chinese favorites like spicy dry pot, Mongolian beef, and tea-smoked duck. But the dumplings are the headliners. Of the eight or so options, we chose the sumptuous pork soup dumpling, plumped with salty piping-hot broth. Not extraordinary, perhaps, but a fine rendition. The same applies to the pan-fried chicken dumplings, which are a tasty bargain at twelve for $10. But the kitchen kicks up the spice a bit with the sweat-inducing, soul-satisfying beef noodle soup: chunks of tender meat in a deep-flavored broth chock-full of baby bok choy and toothsome noodles. We tempered the heat with a cool, crunchy cucumber salad spiked with green onions and bits of garlic.