The Southern accent at this charming cottage cafe in the River East district bears a strong inflection from Acadiana. Owner-chef Cindy Crowder Wheeler makes the menu an homage to her Louisiana roots, executing dishes with savvy restraint where others might go too big and spicy. Order this to go: Crawfish étouffée is simple, with just enough subtle cayenne-tinged butter to be interesting, and served with expertly cooked rice. Shrimp Clemenceau is a revelation in comfort cooking, with firm crustaceans mingling with green peas and sliced mushrooms in a velvety beurre blanc. Rich and addictive, the boudin ball, crusted in herbed bread crumbs, come with tartar sauce that reminds us of rémoulade. The side of choice, collards and cabbage, is sublime. Pro tip: Look for lunch specials like creole meatloaf and a bacon-lettuce-fried green tomato sandwich. Parking can be tricky, but it’s worth the effort.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.