This complete reboot of the Houstonian’s Olivette features a remodeled posh setting with well-spaced tables and banquettes, a new menu and name, and amped-up quality of food and service. If we had polished off our huge puffy gratis rolls slathered with honey-flavored butter, we would never have finished the meal. Instead, we savored our bowl of tortilla soup, with its light chile-tomato broth, smoked chicken, and thinly sliced radishes. Ditto our wood-fired Gulf oysters topped with chorizo butter. A main course of heads-on shrimp atop a round of tender smoked oxtail and cheddar-and-green-onion grits came off nicely, with a rich barbecue sauce and perfectly cooked shrimp. A ten-ounce filet mignon, a hefty hunk of perfectly cooked meat, pleased equally. Sides include great grilled creamed corn, with a smoky flavor and just enough cream. All in all, a meal worthy of tribute.
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An ambitious, reimagined new venue in the historic Houstonian Hotel.