Dining Guide

Trio

Renovating the shopping center space and ramping up his menu, chef Jason Harper makes romantic destination dining of his petite bistro in the burbs. After noshing on duck-fat biscuits delivered to the table in little tin buckets, we enjoy sharing appetizer plates of Hatch chile–spiked crab atop fried wontons and pork belly empanadas topped with escabeche-inspired red cabbage. Among superb fish choices, seared red snapper graced with tarragon-horseradish beurre blanc and accompanied by truffled cauliflower and roasted brussels sprouts is very hard to beat. When there’s room for dessert, bread pudding topped with sliced apples, cinnamon-bourbon Chantilly cream, and candied bacon is the right choice.