Renovating the shopping center space and ramping up his menu, chef Jason Harper makes romantic destination dining of his petite bistro in the burbs. After noshing on duck-fat biscuits delivered to the table in little tin buckets, we enjoy sharing appetizer plates of Hatch chile–spiked crab atop fried wontons and pork belly empanadas topped with escabeche-inspired red cabbage. Among superb fish choices, seared red snapper graced with tarragon-horseradish beurre blanc and accompanied by truffled cauliflower and roasted brussels sprouts is very hard to beat. When there’s room for dessert, bread pudding topped with sliced apples, cinnamon-bourbon Chantilly cream, and candied bacon is the right choice.
Cuisine: New American
Drinks: Beer & wine