Though chef Austin Simmons’s Woodlands locale is quite a trek for Houston inner loopers, Tris makes a satisfying option if you are in the area. A posh setting and friendly staff add to the pleasure of well-prepared dishes. Thai blue crab fingers, tender smoked morsels, come with a peanut-garlic-and-mint dipping sauce. Equally fine is the Ora King salmon, a big, juicy slab with an herby crust, len- tils, and basil hollandaise. Carnivores can be just as pleased with lamb lollipops, slightly sweet with honey and spiked with herbes de Provence and bits of truffles, followed by veal osso buco with gremolata on saffron polenta sided by grilled asparagus.