This tour de force by super-chef Chris Shepherd marries Vietnamese flavors and Houston traditions for a winning union, all served in a snug, casual, and always hopping space. Try this: Tiny, tender pork-stuffed dumplings with soy, chile, and black vinegar sauce are so addictive that you’ll hesitate to share. Other hits include the moist tamarind-glazed Gulf snapper with mega-couscous and summer squash. Inventive but missing the mark: the spicy kimchi jambalaya with crawfish, which tasted a bit fishy, and the wok-fried panzanella salad with heirloom tomatoes, summer beans, and croutons, which arrived a little limp. Pro tip: Expect crowds and slower service on the weekends, even with reservations.
Cuisine: Modern American