Still drawing droves of fans and foodies, Underbelly is just plain fun. The airy interior is welcoming, the kitchen is exuberant, and the menu is Chris Shepherd’s passionate homage to Houston’s robust multicultural dining scene (and it’s about to become even more so, considering a recent announcement that Shepherd will be offering more fish and vegetable dishes). We go with no plan and let our capable server guide us to creations like Korean braised goat—spicy, shredded meat mixed with chewy, pillow-shaped dumplings tinged in a piquant red pepper oil—and roasted oysters in chile butter sprinkled with diced cucumbers (slurping the briny butter from the shell is acceptable). Similarly impressive was a meaty filet of grilled cobia perched in a clam-filled lemongrass-and-coconut broth so lovely that we spooned up every drop. Our one quibble this visit was way too salty flash-fried okra sautéed in fish sauce.