In a town best known for burgers, brats, and beer, Vaudeville is a welcome change of pace. Gray banquettes, slate-topped tables, and two walls of wine-storage strike the right note of studied informality and serious cuisine. Ingredients are locally sourced whenever feasible, but worthy imports include shaved prosciutto di Parma and Holland Edam cheese. The menu has depth and breadth, from the healthy Power Bowl (that you can Texify with chicken or pork belly) to the wood-fired pizzas and daily lunch specials (Tuesday is duck confit!). Arrive early if you want a shot at Sunday’s buttermilk fried chicken (comes with the obligatory mashed potatoes, jalapeño cornbread and—surprise—flash-fried greens with bacon and onions). The fromage and charcuterie boards are a steal at $24. Reservations are essential for six or more.
Cuisine: New American