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Dining Guide

Virgie’s Bar-B-Que

Three-plus years ago, Adrian Handsborough converted the neighborhood convenience store his mom, Virgie, ran for 35 years and began cooking over oak and pecan in two small barrels. His brisket, only a tad fatty, smokes for ten to fourteen hours; we could cut ours with a plastic fork. Well-seasoned pork ribs boasted a generous meat-fat ratio, and beef sausage came on slow but strong. Host and dining room were both cheery and inviting.

City: Houston

Cuisine:

Method: Oak; indirect-heat pit

Pitmaster: Adrian Handsborough

Pro-tip: Virgie's is named for Handsborough's mom, who taught him the art of smoking.

Rating: ★★★★

Address: 5535 N. Gessner, Houston, TX, 77041

Hours: Tue 11-€“2, Wed-€“Fri 11-€“6:30, Sat 11-€“5:30

Phone: 713-466-6525

Website: virgiesbbq.com

Year Opened: 2005

Last updated: May 3, 2013

Reviews

  • Virgie’s Bar-B-Que

    By

    The brawny pork ribs that emerge from the big metal smoker set a standard for the genre. They are massive, pink, and delicious, their meat lightly clinging to the bone until you grab a bite with your teeth and give a light tug. A heavy, salty-peppery crust, without a trace of sweetness, lends depth of …

  • Virgie’s Bar-B-Que

    By

    Update: This joint had a fire on 03/11/11, but they have reopened and are back in business.   BBQ Snob: “Who is your hot link supplier?” Virgie: “That’s my secret. Are you folks food critics or something?” BBQ Snob: “That’s our secret.” This is how my experience at Virgie’s began with the amiable proprietor and …

  • Virgie’s Bar-B-Que

    By

    Three-plus years ago, Adrian Handsborough converted the neighborhood convenience store his mom, Virgie, ran for 35 years and began cooking over oak and pecan in two small barrels. His brisket, only a tad fatty, smokes for ten to fourteen hours; we could cut ours with a plastic fork. Well-seasoned pork ribs boasted a generous meat-fat …

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