In the tangle of new hotels, apartments, and retail that makes up a good chunk of the real estate east of I-35 sits this Portuguese/Goan/Texan creation from the imaginative forces behind Lenoir. And the food here stands out in the sea of new places. A crispy fish stick of sorts, the crab panisse had a wonderful texture (better than most crab cakes), and the shrimp samosas with green tomato–cashew chutney came with shatteringly great shells. Flaky-layered methi paratha paired nicely with the dal that accompanied a dish of gunpowder cauliflower, and the pork ribs vindaloo were tasty (but felt a little safe on a menu that displays such a vibrant panoply of spices and flavors). The wine list is well matched to the food, and cocktails evoke a coastal theme without resorting to tiny umbrellas. While not specifically Portuguese or Goan, the design creates an exotic mood with green plants, macramé, and gently glowing lanterns that float overhead like hot air balloons.